UNDERSTANDING THE COMEDOGENIC SCALE. Will the Oils and Butters in Skincare Clog Pores?

UNDERSTANDING THE COMEDOGENIC SCALE OF OILS AND BUTTERS

From Bella Vida Founder, Erin Schmidt

If you have Oily or Acne Prone skin,  you might be worried about using products that have oils in them in case they might cause you to breakout.  As an Acne sufferer myself, I used to feel the exact same way! 

So I spoke with several  licensed estheticians and educated myself on understanding which Oils and Butters were beneficial for my Skin type (Combination and Acne Prone) and which I should avoid.  I then created my Bella Vida Santa Barbara Skincare line to help acne prone sufferers, like myself,  have Skincare that works and doesn't use harsh chemicals to heal skin. 

There's a lot to know, so make sure to bookmark and share this page so you can refer to it later! I hope this helps you. 

GET THE FACTS:

Unfortunately, there is a lot of misinformation on social media and the internet by well-meaning people about Oils, especially Coconut Oils, in Skincare.  Not all Oils are created Equal!  And there is a BIG Difference between Virgin Coconut Oil and Fractionated Coconut Oils or MCT oil (Medium Chain Triglycerides, derived from Coconut Oil), which has been distilled to create more viscosity so it does not clump, but remains in liquid form at lower temperatures.  

Coconut oil is an incredibly healthy fat. It's rich in several medium-chain fatty acids that can have powerful effects.  It is antibacterial, antifungal and anti-inflammatory. 

Fractionated coconut oil is made from heating coconut oil to remove certain fats to then mainly consist of two medium-chain fatty acids. Fractionation is used to separate different types of fats that are naturally found in some oils. It's often done to make new products for consumers (2). The fractionation of coconut oil is carried out by heating the oil above its melting point. Then, it's left to cool, and the solid fraction of the oil is separated from the liquid. The whole process of fractionation can take several hours.

A Guide to the COMEDOGENIC SCALE for our Bella Vida Skincare for your reference

For Oily or Acne Prone Skin

 **HIGH LINOLEIC ACID OILS

If you have frequent blemishes or oily skin, you might think you need to use only oil-free products. Not so fast! Research shows that people with acne have low levels of linoleic acid in their skin’s surface lipids. Adding these particular fatty acid-rich oils topically may be the best way to address this problem.

Linoleic acid (C18:2) is an omega-6 essential fatty acid not produced by body. It has anti-aging, barrier protective, soothing, and balancing properties, and is most suitable for oily and acne-prone skin.

• The highest linoleic acid ratio is found in black cumin, evening primrose, hemp, grapeseed, guava seed, passionfruit, papaya seed, prickly pear, pumpkin seed, red raspberry, rosehip, safflower, sunflower, soybean and wheat germ oil.
• Borage, castor, cherry kernel, chia, kiwi seed, pomegranate and sesame oils contain high linoleic acid but have more balanced profiles.
• Have Acne Prone, Dehydrated skin?  Try the New Sapphire Facial Oil and Oil Cleanser with Blue Tansy. High in Linoleic acid and blue tansy kills acne causing bacteria, reduces inflammation and balances sebum production.
• 

For Dry and Sensitive Skin Types

**HIGH OLEIC ACID OILS

Oleic Acid (C18:1) is an omega-9 fatty acid, very hydrating and ideal for drier skin. Oils higher in oleic acid can help with dry and sensitive skin, reducing skin sensitivity. They work effectively to reverse the inflammatory response in various layers of the skin.

• The highest oleic acid ratio is found in almond, apricot, avocado, carrot seed, hazelnut, macadamia, macula, olive, palm, sea buckthorn and canola oil, as well as cocoa, mango and shea butter.
• Argan, abyssinian, jojoba, rice bran and tamanu oils contain high oleic acid but have more balanced profiles.

OTHER IMPORTANT FATTY ACIDS

• Lauric Acid (12:0) - antibacterial and anti-acne properties.
• Found in coconut oil, date seed, babassu, and palm oil.

• Myristic Acid (14:0) - cleansing and lubricating properties.
• Found in babassu, palm, and coconut oil.
• Have Dry, Combo or Mature Skin? Try our best-selling Stella Divina Serum Facial Oil with Neroli and Marula.  
• 

THE COMEDOGENIC SCALE OF OILS AND BUTTERS

NOTE: Oils that we use in the Bella Vida Skincare line are highlighted in BLUE and the products they are in is highlighted also. 

The Comedogenic Scale uses a numbering system of 0 to 5 to rank Ingredients based on if they may clog pores.

**NOTE: Research has shown that the ranking of these numbers may actually go down when mixed with other ingredients.

Here is what the Numbers Mean on the Scale:

Blue Tansy Oil:

Blue tansy's ability to clear congested pores, kill off acne-causing bacteria, and reduce redness, make it one of the best oils for acne-prone skin. And it has a lovely, light floral scent.  It is a key ingredient in our Sapphire Facial Oil and Oil Cleanser. 

Blue tansy oil comes from the blue tansy flower, and is a very calming and soothing oil for irritated, acne prone skin. Blue Tansy oil has been found to be an antioxidant, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. It's most common use is to calm irritated skin, reduce heat, and relieve delicate, sensitive or troubled skin. 

FATTY ACIDS: THE VITAL COMPONENTS INSIDE OILS AND BUTTERS

Fatty acids like omega-3 and omega-6 are key to healthy skin. This is not only true for foods rich ion these fatty acids, but in topical applications of products containing them as well. In fact, studies have shown that symptoms of essential fatty acid deficiency may be reversed using products that are rich in linoleic acid.

Topical application may actually be better than ingesting fatty acids when it comes to skin health. Many fatty acids that are ingested tend to be oxidized in the liver before ever reaching the skin. That makes topical application a more efficient delivery system for this critical acid to help skin repair and renew. 

Regardless of your skin type, essential fatty acids are important for skin health even if you don’t have any type of deficiency. For those with healthy skin, topical application of products with fatty acids helps to provide protection from UV radiation and sunburn - a critical step to prevent premature skin aging and wrinkles.

Excessive UV radiation exposure can cause cellular damage in the skin, including inflammation as well as immune system suppression in the skin itself. Premature aging is a result of the destruction of collagen in the skin’s cells, and causes a loss of elasticity, which leads to fine lines and wrinkles. Fatty acids in products that are applied to the skin help protect and even can help reverse that damage.

WHICH TYPES OF  FATTY ACIDS ARE BEST?

Vegetable and seed oils have two types of many types of fatty acids, but two are the primary focus for skincare - linoleic acid and oleic acid.

Alpha linoleic acid (an omega-3) and linoleic acid (an omega-6) are both considered "essential fatty acids" because the body cannot produce them on it's own. Oleic acid is produced by the body, so isn't considered "essential".

Knowing the difference between fatty acids and how they interact with skin can help you choose the right product depending on your skin type.

For Oily or Acne Prone Skin

 **HIGH LINOLEIC ACID OILS

If you have frequent blemishes or oily skin, you might think you need to use only oil-free products. Not so fast! Research shows that people with acne have low levels of linoleic acid in their skin’s surface lipids. Adding these particular fatty acid-rich oils topically may be the best way to address this problem.

*Linoleic acid (C18:2) is an omega-6 essential fatty acid not produced by body. It has anti-aging, barrier protective, soothing, and balancing properties, and is most suitable for oily and acne-prone skin.

• The highest linoleic acid ratio is found in black cumin, evening primrose, hemp, grapeseed, guava seed, passionfruit, papaya seed, prickly pear, pumpkin seed, red raspberry, rosehip, safflower, sunflower, soybean and wheat germ oil.
• Borage, castor, cherry kernel, chia, kiwi seed, pomegranate and sesame oils contain high linoleic acid but have more balanced profiles.

For Dry and Sensitive Skin Types

HIGH OLEIC ACID OILS

Oleic Acid (C18:1) is an omega-9 fatty acid, very hydrating and ideal for drier skin. Oils higher in oleic acid can help with dry and sensitive skin, reducing skin sensitivity. They work effectively to reverse the inflammatory response in various layers of the skin.

• The highest oleic acid ratio is found in almond, apricot, avocado, carrot seed, hazelnut, macadamia, macula, olive, palm, sea buckthorn and canola oil, as well as cocoa, mango and shea butter.
• Argan, abyssinian, jojoba, rice bran and tamanu oils contain high oleic acid but have more balanced profiles.

OTHER IMPORTANT FATTY ACIDS

• Lauric Acid (12:0) - antibacterial and anti-acne properties.
• Found in coconut oil, date seed, babassu, and palm oil.

• Myristic Acid (14:0) - cleansing and lubricating properties.
• Found in babassu, palm, and coconut oil.
• Palmitic Acid (C16:0) - soothing, hydrating, anti-aging and barrier-protective properties.
• High in baobab, brazil nut, macadamia, palm, peanut, rice bran, sea buckthorn and neem oils as well as mowrah butter.
• Palmitoleic Acid (16:1) - an omega-7 fatty acid with anti-aging, healing, and rejuvenating properties.
• Found in macadamia and sea buckthorn oil.
• Stearic Acid (C18:0 ) - rich and hydrating properties but occlusive and tends to clog pores for acne prone skin.
• Found in cocoa, non-fractionated coconut oil, mango mowrah, sal and shea butter as well as neem, shea and tamanu oil.
• Ricinoleic Acid (C18:1) - an omega 9 fatty acid with antibacterial and cleansing properties.
• Found only in castor oil.
• Punicic Acid (C18:3) - an omega 5 fatty acid with repairing, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties.
• Found only in pomegranate oil.  In a variety of our products.
• Alpha-Linolenic Acid/ALA (C18:3) - an omega 3 and an essential fatty acid that helps skin barrier health.
• Found in black currant, perilla, flax/linseed, pumpkin seed, and soybean oil.
• Gamma-Linolenic Acid / GLA (18:3) - an omega 6 fatty acid that soothes inflammation and promotes ceramide synthesis.
• Found in black currant seed, borage, and evening primrose oil.
• Eicosenoic Acid (20:1) - an omega 9 with soothing emollient and permeation enhancing properties.
• High in jojoba and meadowfoam seed oil.
• Behenic Acid (22:0) - restorative, very moisturizing and conditioning properties, especially for hair.
• Found in karanja and mooring oils.
• Erucic Acid (22:1) - an omega 9 with a silky/silicone like feel for light hydration.
• High in abyssinian and broccoli oil, moderate in jojoba and meadowfoam seed oils.

Sources: 

Forward written and edited by Erin Schmidt.  Other information taken from various sources including Herbal Dynamics Beauty blog and Healthline blog.