UNDERSTANDING THE COMEDOGENIC SCALE. Will the Oils and Butters in Skincare Clog Pores?
UNDERSTANDING THE COMEDOGENIC SCALE OF OILS AND BUTTERS
From Bella Vida Founder, Erin Schmidt
If you have Oily or Acne Prone skin, you might be worried about using products that have oils in them in case they might cause you to breakout. As an Acne sufferer myself, I used to feel the exact same way!
So I spoke with several licensed estheticians and educated myself on understanding which Oils and Butters were beneficial for my Skin type (Combination and Acne Prone) and which I should avoid. I then created my Bella Vida Santa Barbara Skincare line to help acne prone sufferers, like myself, have Skincare that works and doesn't use harsh chemicals to heal skin.
There's a lot to know, so make sure to bookmark and share this page so you can refer to it later! I hope this helps you.
GET THE FACTS:
Unfortunately, there is a lot of misinformation on social media and the internet by well-meaning people about Oils, especially Coconut Oils, in Skincare. Not all Oils are created Equal! And there is a BIG Difference between Virgin Coconut Oil and Fractionated Coconut Oils or MCT oil (Medium Chain Triglycerides, derived from Coconut Oil), which has been distilled to create more viscosity so it does not clump, but remains in liquid form at lower temperatures.
Coconut oil is an incredibly healthy fat. It's rich in several medium-chain fatty acids that can have powerful effects. It is antibacterial, antifungal and anti-inflammatory.
Fractionated coconut oil is made from heating coconut oil to remove certain fats to then mainly consist of two medium-chain fatty acids. Fractionation is used to separate different types of fats that are naturally found in some oils. It's often done to make new products for consumers (2). The fractionation of coconut oil is carried out by heating the oil above its melting point. Then, it's left to cool, and the solid fraction of the oil is separated from the liquid. The whole process of fractionation can take several hours.
A Guide to the COMEDOGENIC SCALE for our Bella Vida Skincare for your reference
For Oily or Acne Prone Skin
**HIGH LINOLEIC ACID OILS
If you have frequent blemishes or oily skin, you might think you need to use only oil-free products. Not so fast! Research shows that people with acne have low levels of linoleic acid in their skin’s surface lipids. Adding these particular fatty acid-rich oils topically may be the best way to address this problem.
Linoleic acid (C18:2) is an omega-6 essential fatty acid not produced by body. It has anti-aging, barrier protective, soothing, and balancing properties, and is most suitable for oily and acne-prone skin.
- The highest linoleic acid ratio is found in black cumin, evening primrose, hemp, grapeseed, guava seed, passionfruit, papaya seed, prickly pear, pumpkin seed, red raspberry, rosehip, safflower, sunflower, soybean and wheat germ oil.
- Borage, castor, cherry kernel, chia, kiwi seed, pomegranate and sesame oils contain high linoleic acid but have more balanced profiles.
- Have Acne Prone, Dehydrated skin? Try the New Sapphire Facial Oil and Oil Cleanser with Blue Tansy. High in Linoleic acid and blue tansy kills acne causing bacteria, reduces inflammation and balances sebum production.
For Dry and Sensitive Skin Types
**HIGH OLEIC ACID OILS
Oleic Acid (C18:1) is an omega-9 fatty acid, very hydrating and ideal for drier skin. Oils higher in oleic acid can help with dry and sensitive skin, reducing skin sensitivity. They work effectively to reverse the inflammatory response in various layers of the skin.
- The highest oleic acid ratio is found in almond, apricot, avocado, carrot seed, hazelnut, macadamia, macula, olive, palm, sea buckthorn and canola oil, as well as cocoa, mango and shea butter.
- Argan, abyssinian, jojoba, rice bran and tamanu oils contain high oleic acid but have more balanced profiles.
OTHER IMPORTANT FATTY ACIDS
- Lauric Acid (12:0) - antibacterial and anti-acne properties.
- Found in coconut oil, date seed, babassu, and palm oil.
- Myristic Acid (14:0) - cleansing and lubricating properties.
- Found in babassu, palm, and coconut oil.
- Have Dry, Combo or Mature Skin? Try our best-selling Stella Divina Serum Facial Oil with Neroli and Marula.
THE COMEDOGENIC SCALE OF OILS AND BUTTERS
NOTE: Oils that we use in the Bella Vida Skincare line are highlighted in BLUE and the products they are in is highlighted also.
The Comedogenic Scale uses a numbering system of 0 to 5 to rank Ingredients based on if they may clog pores.
**NOTE: Research has shown that the ranking of these numbers may actually go down when mixed with other ingredients.
Here is what the Numbers Mean on the Scale:
Name | Comedogenic Rating | Skin Type(s) | Composition + Products |
Abyssinian Seed Oil | 0 | Most Skin Types | High in Erucic Acid and Moderate in Oleic Acid |
Acai Berry Oil | 2 | Dry, Mature, Irritated | High in Oleic Acid and Moderate in Linoleic Acid |
Almond Oil, Sweet | 2 | Dry, Sensitive, Acne-Prone |
High in Oleic Acid
|
Andiroba Seed Oil | 2 | Dry, Acne-Prone | High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Linoleic Acid |
Apricot Kernel Oil | 2 | Combination, Dry |
High in Oleic Acid
|
Argan Oil | 0 | Most Skin Types |
High in Oleic Acid, Linoleic Acid |
Avocado Oil | 3 | Dry, Acne-Prone |
High in Oleic Acid |
Babassu Oil | 1-2 | Most Skin Types | High in Lauric, Myristic and Oleic Acid |
Baobob Seed Oil | 2 | Most Skin Types |
High in Oleic Acid, Moderate Linoleic |
Black Currant Seed Oil | 0-1 | Dry, Sensitive | High in Linoleic Acid + GLA and ALA |
Blackberry Seed Oil | 0-1 | Oily | High in Linoleic, Moderate Linolenic Acid |
Black Cumin Seed Oil | 2 | Combination | High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate Oleic |
Black Raspberry Seed Oil | 1-2 | Dry, Combination, Acne-Prone | High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate Linolenic |
Blueberry Seed Oil | 0-1 | Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Acne-Prone |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate Linolenic & Oleic in Blueberry Coco Charcoal Mask |
Borage Oil | 2 | Combination, Oily, Sensitive |
High in Linoleic Acid and GLA |
Brazil Nut Oil | 2 | Dry, Mature | High in Oleic Acid, Moderate Linoleic |
Broccoli Seed Oil | 1 | Dry, Best for Night/Hair | High in Erucic Acid and Oleic Acid |
Buriti Oil | 2 | Dry, Mature | High in Oleic Acid |
Camellia Seed Oil | 1 | Most Skin Types | High in Oleic Acid |
Carrot Seed Oil | 3-4 | Dry, Mature | High in Oleic Acid |
Castor Oil | 1 | Most Skin Types, including Oily/Acne-Prone | High in Ricinoleic Acid |
Cherry Kernel Oil | 2 | Most Skin Types, especially Dry/Irritated | High in Oleic and Linoleic Acid |
Chia Seed Oil | 3 | Best for Body Use |
High in Linolenic
|
Cloudberry Seed Oil | 1 | Oily, Acne-Prone | High in Linoleic and Linolenic Acid |
Cocoa Butter | 4 | Ideal for Body/Eye Area, not for Oily/Acne-Prone |
High in Oleic and Stearic Acid in Dolce Vanilla Collagen Moisturizer |
Coconut Butter | 4 | Very Dry, Best for Body Use | High in Oleic, Stearic and Palmitic Acid |
Virgin Coconut Oil | 4 | Very Dry, Best for Body Use | High in Lauric Acid |
*Coconut Oil, Fractionated | 2-3 | *Most Skin Types |
*High in Lauric, Caprylic, Capric Acid. Antibacterial and Anti-Acne. in Coco Citrus Noir Oil Cleanser, Radiant Sunflower Serum, and Blueberry Coco Charcoal Mask |
Cottonseed Oil | 3 | Best for Hair or Body | High in Linoleic Acid |
Cranberry Seed Oil | 2 | Dry, Acne-Prone |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic and Linolenic Acid, in New Ombre Facial Oil and Oil Cleanser in Dolce Vanilla Collagen Moisturizer |
Cucumber Seed Oil | 1 | Most Skin Types | High in Linoleic Acid |
Date Seed Oil | 3 | Dry | High in Oleic Acid |
Elderberry Seed Oil | 1-2 | Most Skin Types | High in Linoelic and Linolenic Acid |
Emu Oil | 1 | Most Skin Types | High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Palmitic Acid |
Evening Primrose Oil | 2-3 | Oily, Acne-Prone, Combination |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in GLA in Herbal Hydration Cream Mask |
Flax Seed Oil (Linseed) | 4 | Very Dry, Best for Body Use | High in Alpha Linolenic Acid |
Guava Seed Oil | 1-2 | Most Skin Types | High in Linoleic Acid |
Goji Berry Seed Oil | 0-1 | Oily | High in Linoleic Acid |
*Grapeseed Oil | 1 |
Most Skin Types, even oily and acne prone. Very high in antioxidants. |
High in Linoleic Acid, great for oily and acne prone skin. in Stella Divina Serum Facial Oil, Sapphire Serum Facial Oil and Oil Cleanser, Ombre Facial Oil and Oil Cleanser and Dolce Vanilla Collagen Moisturizer |
Hazelnut Oil | 1 | Most Skin Types, especially Sensitive, Acne-Prone | High in Oleic Acid |
Hemp Seed Oil | 0 | Most Skin Types, including Oily/Acne-Prone |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Linolenic Acid in Viola Lavande Deep Hydration Hemp Lotion |
Jojoba Oil *(Skin Identical Oil) |
2 | Most Skin Types, including Oily/Acne-Prone |
High in Eicosenoic Acid in a Variety of our Products |
Karanja Oil | 2 | Dry, Hair Use | High in Oleic Acid |
Kiwi Seed Oil | 1 | Dry, Flaky, Hair Use | High in Linolenic Acid |
Kukui Nut Oil | 2 | Dry, Flaky, Hair Use | High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic and Linolenic Acid |
Lanolin Oil | 2 | Very Dry | NA |
Macadamia Nut Oil | 2-3 | Dry | High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Palmitoleic Acid |
Mango Butter | 2 | Most Skin Types |
High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Stearic Acid |
Mango Seed Oil | 2 | Most Skin Types, particularly Dry |
High in Oleic and Stearic Acid |
Marula Oil | 3-4 | Dry, Sensitive Skin |
High in Oleic Acid |
Meadowfoam Seed Oil | 1 | Oily, Acne-Prone, Sensitive |
High in Eicosenoic Acid |
Milk Thistle Seed Oil | 1 | Most Skin Types | High in Linoleic Acid |
Mineral Oil | 0 | Most Skin Types | NA |
Mink Oil | 3 | Dry | High in Oleic Acid |
Moringa Oil | 3-4 | Dry, Combination | High in Oleic Acid |
Mowrah Butter | na | Most Skin Types, especially Dry/Damaged | High in Oleic and Palmitic Acid |
Neem Oil | 1-2 | Dry, Acne-Prone |
High in Oleic Acid |
Olive Oil | 2 | Dry, Acne-Prone |
High in Oleic Acid in Coco Citrus Noir Oil Cleanser in Herbal Hydration Cream Mask |
Papaya Seed Oil | 2-3 | Dry, Acne-Prone, Sensitive | High in Oleic Acid |
Palm Oil | 4 | Very Dry, Best for Body Use | High in Lauric Acid |
Palm Oil, Red | 4 | Very Dry, Best for Body Use | High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Palmitic Acid |
Passionfruit (Maracuja) Seed Oil | 1-2 | Oily, Irritated, Acne-Prone | High in Linoleic Acid |
Peach Kernel Oil | 2 | Dry, Sensitive | High in Oleic Acid |
Peanut Oil | 2 | Most Skin Types | High in Oleic and Palmitic Acid |
Pecan Oil | 2 | Dry, Combination | High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Linoleic Acid |
Perilla Oil | 1-2 | Most Skin Types, especially Dry | High in ALA |
Pistachio Oil | na | Most Skin Types, especially Dry/Damaged | High in Oleic and Palmitic Acid |
Plum Kernel Oil | 1-2 | Most Skin Types, especially Mature | High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Linoleic Acid |
Pomegranate Seed Oil | 1 | Most Skin Types, especially Mature |
High in Punicic Acid in Pineapple Paradiso Glow Mask in Ombre Facial Oil and Oil Cleanser and a Variety of our Products |
Prickly Pear Seed Oil | 1-2 | Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Combination | High in Linoleic Acid |
Pumpkin Seed Oil | 2 | Most Skin Types, even oily and acne prone |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid |
Red Raspberry Seed Oil | 0-1 | Most Skin Types |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Linolenic Acid in |
Rice Bran Oil | 2 | Most Skin Types, especially Mature/Combination | High in Oleic and Linoleic Acid |
Rosehip Seed Oil | 1 | Oily, Acne-Prone |
High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Linolenic Acid, High in Vitamin A (natural Retinol) in Herbal Hydration Cream Mask |
Safflower Oil (High Linoleic) | 0 | Most Skin Types |
High in Linoleic Acid |
Sal Seed Butter | Dry | High in Stearic and Oleic Acid | |
Sea Buckthorn Oil | 1 | Most Skin Types, especially Mature/Dry | High in Palmitic, Palmitoleic and Oleic Acid |
Sesame Seed Oil | 3 | Dry, Irritated | High in Linoleic and Oleic Acid |
Shea Butter | 0-2 | Normal, Dry |
High in Oleic and Stearic Acid in Radiant Sunflower Serum Retinol Cream in Dolce Vanilla Collagen Moisturizer |
Shea Oil | 0-2 | Very Dry | High in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Stearic Acid |
Soybean Oil | 4-5 | Very Dry, Best for Body Use |
High in Linoleic Acid in Dolce Vanilla Collagen Moisturizer |
Squalane Oil | 0-1 | Most Skin Types | High in Omega-2 |
Strawberry Seed Oil | 1 | Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Acne-Prone | High in Linoleic and Linolenic Acid |
Sunflower Seed Oil | 0-2 | Most Skin Types, Helps balance oily skin |
High in Linoleic Acid in Stella Divina Serum Facial Oil in Sapphire Serum Facial oil and Oil cleanser in Ombre Facial Oil and Oil Cleanser in Herbal Hydration Cream Mask |
Tallow | 2 | Dry | High in Oleic Acid |
Tamanu Oil | 2 | Most Skin Types, especially Scarred/Sensitive skin |
High in Oleic and Linoleic Acid in our Coco Citrus Noir Purifying Oil Cleanser |
Tomato Seed Oil | 0-2 | Most Skin Types | High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid |
Walnut Seed Oil | 1-2 | Most Skin Types | High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid |
Watermelon Seed OIl | 0-1 | Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Acne-Prone/Sensitive | High in Linoleic Acid |
Wheat Germ Oil | 5 | Very Dry/Damaged, Spot Treatment | High in Linolenic Acid |
Blue Tansy Oil:
Blue tansy's ability to clear congested pores, kill off acne-causing bacteria, and reduce redness, make it one of the best oils for acne-prone skin. And it has a lovely, light floral scent. It is a key ingredient in our Sapphire Facial Oil and Oil Cleanser.
Blue tansy oil comes from the blue tansy flower, and is a very calming and soothing oil for irritated, acne prone skin. Blue Tansy oil has been found to be an antioxidant, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. It's most common use is to calm irritated skin, reduce heat, and relieve delicate, sensitive or troubled skin.
FATTY ACIDS: THE VITAL COMPONENTS INSIDE OILS AND BUTTERS
Fatty acids like omega-3 and omega-6 are key to healthy skin. This is not only true for foods rich ion these fatty acids, but in topical applications of products containing them as well. In fact, studies have shown that symptoms of essential fatty acid deficiency may be reversed using products that are rich in linoleic acid.
Topical application may actually be better than ingesting fatty acids when it comes to skin health. Many fatty acids that are ingested tend to be oxidized in the liver before ever reaching the skin. That makes topical application a more efficient delivery system for this critical acid to help skin repair and renew.
Regardless of your skin type, essential fatty acids are important for skin health even if you don’t have any type of deficiency. For those with healthy skin, topical application of products with fatty acids helps to provide protection from UV radiation and sunburn - a critical step to prevent premature skin aging and wrinkles.
Excessive UV radiation exposure can cause cellular damage in the skin, including inflammation as well as immune system suppression in the skin itself. Premature aging is a result of the destruction of collagen in the skin’s cells, and causes a loss of elasticity, which leads to fine lines and wrinkles. Fatty acids in products that are applied to the skin help protect and even can help reverse that damage.
WHICH TYPES OF FATTY ACIDS ARE BEST?
Vegetable and seed oils have two types of many types of fatty acids, but two are the primary focus for skincare - linoleic acid and oleic acid.
Alpha linoleic acid (an omega-3) and linoleic acid (an omega-6) are both considered "essential fatty acids" because the body cannot produce them on it's own. Oleic acid is produced by the body, so isn't considered "essential".
Knowing the difference between fatty acids and how they interact with skin can help you choose the right product depending on your skin type.
For Oily or Acne Prone Skin
**HIGH LINOLEIC ACID OILS
If you have frequent blemishes or oily skin, you might think you need to use only oil-free products. Not so fast! Research shows that people with acne have low levels of linoleic acid in their skin’s surface lipids. Adding these particular fatty acid-rich oils topically may be the best way to address this problem.
*Linoleic acid (C18:2) is an omega-6 essential fatty acid not produced by body. It has anti-aging, barrier protective, soothing, and balancing properties, and is most suitable for oily and acne-prone skin.
- The highest linoleic acid ratio is found in black cumin, evening primrose, hemp, grapeseed, guava seed, passionfruit, papaya seed, prickly pear, pumpkin seed, red raspberry, rosehip, safflower, sunflower, soybean and wheat germ oil.
- Borage, castor, cherry kernel, chia, kiwi seed, pomegranate and sesame oils contain high linoleic acid but have more balanced profiles.
For Dry and Sensitive Skin Types
HIGH OLEIC ACID OILS
Oleic Acid (C18:1) is an omega-9 fatty acid, very hydrating and ideal for drier skin. Oils higher in oleic acid can help with dry and sensitive skin, reducing skin sensitivity. They work effectively to reverse the inflammatory response in various layers of the skin.
- The highest oleic acid ratio is found in almond, apricot, avocado, carrot seed, hazelnut, macadamia, macula, olive, palm, sea buckthorn and canola oil, as well as cocoa, mango and shea butter.
- Argan, abyssinian, jojoba, rice bran and tamanu oils contain high oleic acid but have more balanced profiles.
OTHER IMPORTANT FATTY ACIDS
- Lauric Acid (12:0) - antibacterial and anti-acne properties.
- Found in coconut oil, date seed, babassu, and palm oil.
- Myristic Acid (14:0) - cleansing and lubricating properties.
- Found in babassu, palm, and coconut oil.
- Palmitic Acid (C16:0) - soothing, hydrating, anti-aging and barrier-protective properties.
- High in baobab, brazil nut, macadamia, palm, peanut, rice bran, sea buckthorn and neem oils as well as mowrah butter.
- Palmitoleic Acid (16:1) - an omega-7 fatty acid with anti-aging, healing, and rejuvenating properties.
- Found in macadamia and sea buckthorn oil.
- Stearic Acid (C18:0 ) - rich and hydrating properties but occlusive and tends to clog pores for acne prone skin.
- Found in cocoa, non-fractionated coconut oil, mango mowrah, sal and shea butter as well as neem, shea and tamanu oil.
- Ricinoleic Acid (C18:1) - an omega 9 fatty acid with antibacterial and cleansing properties.
- Found only in castor oil.
- Punicic Acid (C18:3) - an omega 5 fatty acid with repairing, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties.
- Found only in pomegranate oil. In a variety of our products.
- Alpha-Linolenic Acid/ALA (C18:3) - an omega 3 and an essential fatty acid that helps skin barrier health.
- Found in black currant, perilla, flax/linseed, pumpkin seed, and soybean oil.
- Gamma-Linolenic Acid / GLA (18:3) - an omega 6 fatty acid that soothes inflammation and promotes ceramide synthesis.
- Found in black currant seed, borage, and evening primrose oil.
- Eicosenoic Acid (20:1) - an omega 9 with soothing emollient and permeation enhancing properties.
- High in jojoba and meadowfoam seed oil.
- Behenic Acid (22:0) - restorative, very moisturizing and conditioning properties, especially for hair.
- Found in karanja and mooring oils.
- Erucic Acid (22:1) - an omega 9 with a silky/silicone like feel for light hydration.
- High in abyssinian and broccoli oil, moderate in jojoba and meadowfoam seed oils.
Sources:
Forward written and edited by Erin Schmidt. Other information taken from various sources including Herbal Dynamics Beauty blog and Healthline blog.